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Tasting and evaluating young wines from the cask during their ageing process is always a very difficult exercise and furthermore, the severe drought of the 2003 vintage considerably changed the expression of the wines at this time of the year.
I started my first day in Saint-Emilion with a private tasting at Chateau CHEVAL BLANC. I was received by Pierre LURTON (the picture on the right is Patrick and Pierre LURTON), manager of the Chateau for years, who gave me a warm welcome and invited me to the tasting room. He kindly took time to explain to me his opinion about this unusual vintage and his choices for a 56% Cabernet-Franc and 44% Merlot. Then came the tasting, first PETIT CHEVAL (second wine): velvety, unctuous structure and a very fine finish, and CHEVAL-BLANC: wonderful freshness, rich tannins and no hardness whatsoever… always a great moment!
It was now time to drive to Chateau BEAU SEJOUR BECOT for the tasting of the St.Emilion Grands Crus Classes. Several hundreds of professionals from all over the world were filling up the tasting room.
Depending of the soils and exposures of the vineyards, I was surprised to see how different the Merlot was showing its exceptional ripeness. The aromas to me were a little bit different and sometimes surprising compared to what I usually expect from this appellation.
Then, I had the chance to go to Chateau EGLISE CLINET – Pomerol - for an other private tasting. The owner and winemaker Denis DURANTOU gave me the most interesting tour and comments of the 2003 Pomerol appellation. According to him, the best wines were the ones coming from the north-south exposed vineyards versus the south-south/east. We then tasted La CHENADE (Lalande de Pomerol), PETITE EGLISE (second wine) and EGLISE CLINET and on this particular afternoon, the three wines were showing very well.
The last tasting was the one at Chateau LA POINTE were the Pomerol were presented. Once again, the terroirs made all the difference and, according to my notes, the wines from calcareous soils were showing the best.
After such an interesting and full day (more than a hundred wines tasted), I was already looking for my next day in the Medoc. To be continued...
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